After trying to find a replacement alternator pulley for my 1992 Mercury Capri to eliminate the belt slippage and squealing, and finding only a $150.00 'kit' at a certain Capri parts website, I got mad and came up with a quality alternative that duplicates the original F2JY-10344-A alternator pulley that was specified in Ford Recall #92B09. I managed to get my old alternator 'core' back from the parts supplier who sold it to the shop that replaced it for me, and the original alternator pulley was still on it. I found a supplier on Ebay that had 'take-off' alternator pulleys with the right basic dimensions, and hired a machine shop to 'finish' them so that they duplicated the correct pulley. The powder-coated pulleys are what I purchased, the black painted pulley is one of the new modified pulleys, and the primer-painted pulley is the original off of my car. The pulley diameter is 2.625 inches, the groove width is 13/32", and the pulley bore is .670. The rear face of the pulley had to be tapered in to fit the alternator and clear the housing, and the belt groove had to be widened from the original 3/8". I installed one of these modified pulleys on my 1992 Mercury Capri (Mitsubishi alternator), and it fits perfectly and the annoying belt squealing is GONE FOREVER. The charging system is working better than ever, and this repair even eliminated some problems we were having with low idle speeds and idle fallout when the air conditioner is turned on. I attribute the extra 'benefits' to the alternator finally running at the proper RPM without belt slippage so the system voltage has returned to where it belongs.
I'm not selling a belt as part of a 'kit'. You can go to your local auto supply store and purchase a Gates 7345 v-belt to use with this pulley. The catalogs call for a 7355, but the 7355 is too loose. The 'wrong' pulley has a diameter that requires the 7355 to slip over it, but when you get it on, the alternator is out at the end of its adjustment. The 7345 solves this problem.
You will need to unbolt and reposition the IDLE SPEED CONTROL/BYPASS AIR VALVE (ISC/BPA) and remove the alternator adjustment bracket and support brace from the engine in order to remove the alternator FROM THE TOP. It is not necessary to disturb any components below the alternator to remove it if you follow this procedure.
To remove the alternator, first remove the negative battery cable from the battery terminal. Then remove the passenger side inner fender liner bolts and reposition the fender liner to gain access to the belts and alternator mounting bolts. Loosen the power steering pump adjuster bracket clamp bolt and back off the power steering belt adjuster, then push down on the power steering pump to get the slack needed to remove the serpentine belt. Remove the alternator bracket adjusting clamp bolt, the alternator lower mounting bolt, and the alternator slide bracket and brace. (See the picture) NOTE: remove only the mounting bolts that hold the slide bracket and brace to the block, and remove the bracket and brace as an assembly so you don't have to readjust it when you put it back. Remove the air hoses from the ISC/BPA valve (See the picture) by squeezing the clamps, and set the hoses aside. The small 3/8 hoses going to the valve are COOLANT HOSES. Take these two hoses loose from the valve only, and stick a 3/8 bolt into each one and secure it with the clamp so the antifreeze will not leak out. Remove the mounting bolt and nut from the valve, and pull it out far enough to clear the stud. Place the valve on top of the engine out of the way. NOTE: Do not remove the electrical connection from the valve. It is NOT NECESSARY.
Remove the nut holding the alternator 'hot' wire, and unplug the wiring harness from the back of the alternator by squeezing the clip that holds it in place. Work the alternator back and forth to free it from the lower mounting bracket and lift it out through the opening created by moving the ISC/BPA and removing the bracket and brace.
Remove the pulley nut from the alternator by using an impact wrench. Replace the pulley with the new replacement pulley, and reinstall the alternator using the reverse of the above procedure.
If you have any questions or discover any problems with the above procedure, please let me know.
I'm selling the rest of these pulleys to recover what I spent on the original pulleys and the additional machining, and to help at least nine Capri owners fix their alternators without spending $150. Help me out and buy these!!!
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