520 Conversion Chain & Sprocket Kit Zx6 Zx 6 Zx-6 600 on 2040-parts.com

 Front sprockets are made of heat treated steel for optimum durability.  And when I have the choice, I use ones that have been machined  vs. cast because of the higher resulting accuracy.  When possible, they are also drilled for lightness and added performance. 

The sprockets brand name is- Thrust Company.   Front sprockets are made of heat treated steel for optimum durability.  And when I have the choice, I use ones that have been machined  vs. cast because of the higher resulting accuracy.  When possible, they are also drilled for lightness and added performance.   Rears are made of 7075 aerospace grade aluminum and is heat treated to a T6 hardness- the best you can put on your bike.  They are machined to exact specs with tolerances more stringent than other aluminum sprockets and many times tighter than OE sprockets.  What this means is your chain will fit the sprocket better and everything will last longer.  Additionally, they are chemically etched to give a uniform, even, satin finish.  This process also provides corrosion resistance.   They are made by an expert sprocket machinists who has been making sprockets for nearly 30 years.  When possible, rears are also Hard Anodized and Ultra-Lite drilled at no additional cost. 

All parts are race quality and race proven parts used by racers across the country and built by companies with 20+ years under their belt making sprockets.

And, you can choose the gearing you'd like.  Go with Stock, Mild, Stage I , or Stage II .

 Stock is pretty self-explanatory. 
Mild -  This is about where you'll start to notice a difference in performance.  And is a good place to start if your looking for a little extra acceleration without sacrificing much higher rpm's on the highway. 
Stage I - Ideal for most sport riding enthusiasts- This is generally meant for someone wanting a lot more acceleration and for easier wheelies etc.  This combo will generally let you pull wheelies ine gear higher than you can with stock.  This is also a good starting combination for roadracing and track days (except for very long tracks).  With this setup the goal is to get the maximum performance out of a bike without sacrificing any top speed.  This is generally how I think most bikes should come from the factory.  
Stage II - This is a great setup for effortless wheelies or someone wanting to learn more technical stunt riding and also for drag racing.  Depending on the bike and rider weight, you may see a 5-10% decrease in terminal speed with this kit due to the rise in rpm's.  But you will get to your terminal speed MUCH faster.  You can expect 1-2 second faster ET's once you practice getting the power down efficiently.

****************

I've come up with my ratios I use by working with professional stunt riders for the past 6 years, and from my own national roadracing experience for the last 12.  And the reason you won't see too many specifics any longer is because there are several people trying to copy and imitate what I've been doing.  And when you do purchase something from me and need help after the sale- your going to get it.  This experience along with superior, application specific products is what your paying for here.

****************

Regardless of the ratio you pick your not going to get short changed with only getting a smaller front sprocket or a chain that isn't rated properly for your application, or a chain that isn't cut to the proper length for the sprockets, etc.  You can be assured your getting the correct parts for how you ride your bike by someone who does this for a living.  Over half of our business comes from referrals.  And if we didn't know what we're doing on the street, track, and stunt competitions, we wouldn't have the reputation we do. 

Thrust Company Rider - 'Crazy' Dan Jackson

If your looking for a 'Street Stunt' or 'Pro Stunt' setup thats a different auction. 

 Upon checkout you will need to email us your bike YEAR, the MODEL, and what KIT option you would like.  If you have any questions on this or need help deciding, please email me.  PLEASE keep in mind that there is an endless amount of gearing possibilities across the different models that this auction covers and it isn't possible for me to have every combination in stock.  However, I do stock the popular choices for the most popular bikes.  If I don't have exaclty what you want I will make it and this process usually takes a week or so.  If you need something particular for a specific date, please let me know this upon ordering so that I can let you know what is possible.

If you've heard of 'conversion kits' or 'acceleration kits' before- it is for good reason. Most street bikes were, and still are, originally equipped with 530 size chain and sprockets from the factory. This is mainly because it has been the norm for many years and it is cheaper and easier for them to do everything in one size. Recent exceptions are certain newer mid-sized (600-750cc) sport bikes which now come with a new 525 size. And the new Kawasaki race replicas now come with 520 from the factory because of the obvious benefits!

This auction is the real deal. We only use the very best quality performance parts- No haphazard thrown together, old, outdated, second hand stuff here. This auction is for those who want to the best and expect the best out of their machine.  Don't let someone selling other general bike parts lead you to believe they know what they're talking about.

The lighter sprockets and chain will give you less unsprung weight(rotating mass) which will improve the braking and handling of the bike as well as increase your hp output at the rear wheel and your acceleration. When combined with a shorter gear ratio combo it will give you a lot more pulling power for a quicker launch and easier wheelies, if desired. And the most useful benefit that everyone will appreciate is faster roll-ons in every gear, at every speed.

Converting to a 520 kit the average bike will see a 5% increase in horsepower.  So, 6-8 hp is very typical on a 750.  Not a bad hp per dollar ratio there.  Especially since you have to eventually replace these parts anyway.

Upon request I can also provide some handy tips and tricks for swapping the sprockets yourself. 

So, if your friends are beating you off the line, or making wheelies look easy you now have a secret weapon.  It is also a much less expensive way to replace AND upgrade worn out OEM parts.

For all riders, regardless of whether your interested in this auction-  To avoid an accident and/or damage to your motor, or worse, you should regularly maintain and inspect your drive components.  Its often an overlooked and neglected part of a bike.    To check the condition of your chain, first adjust the tension properly.  With the bike held straight up and down you should have about 3 times the height of the chain top to bottom, measured below the swingarm.  (This is particularly important if you are doing wheelies or carry a passenger because if you don't have enough slack in your chain it will be seriously stretched when your suspension fully compresses.  And NO chain is designed to withstand this stress.)  Also check the wear by pulling on the chain on the very backside of the sprocket.  If you can pull the chain away from the sprocket more than 1/16"(2mm) then you should consider replacing everything.   Also, raise your rear wheel off the ground, spin the wheel and listen for excessive noise, check for kinks, and check for loose or tight spots in the tension at multiple places around the chain.  Also inspect your sprocket(s) for excessive wear or damaged teeth.  If you find ANY of the above - REPLACE the chain.  If you don't replace it soon- you can expect to have more serious issues to deal with in the near future.

If you have any unanswered questions regarding the use or reasons behind switching to the 520 setup, please email me. I don't mind any question you might think dumb, and I return every email as promptly as I can.  Or you can also call our TECH LINE 814-489-3379. (If I don't get back to you the same day you email me on a weekend day, I am probably at the track. If the auction is ending during that weekend, and you need to get in touch with me urgently, feel free to try me via my cell at 484-951-3128.  And if you email me and don't hear back from me within 24 hours, there may be something wrong with one of our emails - so in this case- call me.)

A word about SHIPPING-  I will ship this item via Priority mail so you get it in 1-3 business days from us sending it out nomatter where in the US you live.  The S&H cost is a fixed amount for all US zip codes and APO's.  Check shipping details for other locations.  Please do not purchase this item if you are going to have remorse over the shipping & handling costs later and give bad feedback about it. This fee not only covers the actual shipping costs, but also handling.  Our handling charges are what they are because we have someone to process your order quickly and deliver your package to the carrier right away.  If you appreciate quick processing of your order, please reflect this in your feedback about shipping time and costs.  If you have any questions about this, please call me.

(If for some reason you don't get an order confirmation right away or get your order within a week of making payment then call me because you haven't provided all the information I need and/or I might not be able to get in touch with you otherwise.)  

·If you’re interested in this part, please check out my other auctions.

-We are a registered and licesned reseller, so if you have any OEM or aftermarket parts needs please check out our other auctions and email me with any questions at all.