Bushing 4 Hummer 15268403 Shift Shifter Control Cable Auto Transmission New on 2040-parts.com

The part that I am offering is just the bushing, not the cable, and it is a simple stock solution. No grinding, no disassembling, and not a lot of time waiting for the part. I ship fast (most cases same or next day, and it takes about 2 to 3 working days to arrive).

   I am a fast shipper, but the fact that you need the part right away does not mean it will be there the day after your purchase. I am not responsible for shipping times and, of course, neither am I in charge of USPS logistics; please consider this before you decide to low-score me on shipping time because the item was not there when you expected it.

   If you want to pursue another route to fix your vehicle and you are in a rush to do so, please read this first: the bushing is intended to be an isolator/dampener component since the selector metal ball vibrates and gets hot, whereas the cable is plastic and is supposed to be colder. You could install a pin, a washer, and a cotter pin or buy a metal bushing. Maybe even an Allen bolt and nut to "sandwich" the plastic end, or any other "permanent solution," but if something's gotta give, it will be the plastic end of the cable since the heat will pass to the plastic end directly from the tranny selector or the  pressure will crack it. You will then be forced to buy another cable . Moreover, you will have to grind the selector ball off to do the adapting, and if you want to fix your car fast you will have to pay good money to get your "fixing kit" fast and wait 5 to 10 working days or pay overnight (with me, it will take way less than that).

   This little bushing is the culprit to more than just frequent trouble on the road. Suddenly, the worn shifter bushing, located at the transmission end, gives out after years of good service under extreme conditions of heat and cold, water, salt and oil exposure. The selector cable then disconnects from the pull ball and you get stuck in gear, unable even to shift back to park and unable to remove the key from the ignition. Fixing that temporarily in the middle of the road and then limping back home is not fun, let me tell you.

   There are several solutions, of course: you could take your car to the shop and get the cable itself replaced (100 to 200 dollars plus towing fees), buy a new cable and do it yourself (80 dollars), buy a "good used one," or get really involved, do a chop job and go ahead modifying the selector pull, grinding its ball off, drilling a hole where the ball was, and installing a new metallic pin, hoping you didn't mess it up  and assuming that the metal part you just bought will not eventually destroy the plastic eyelet. You could also install a new bushing that will last for years and is an economical and stock alternative. I have one of these bushings in my vehicle's glove compartment and another one installed at the end of my shifter cable, no issues.

   To install this bushing, it's not even necessary to remove the cable from its location. It is just a matter of removing all the bits of the old split-up plastic bushing and installing the new one into the cable's end eyelet, then inserting the eyelet into the selector pull; you are done. Some people can get this done in four minutes.

   If your year and model is not on the list, then I am not sure that it will fit your application. If the part number for the cable is the same, then it should; but unfortunately, my listing is incomplete, and even when I know the bushing will fit many other vehicles, I'm not sure which ones those may be. You could also just buy it and check, and send it back for a refund if it doesn't fit. If you have remnants of the old bushing you could give me some measurements to compare. Tell me what you want me to do. I will try to help you any reasonable way I can.

   These are the approximate measurements for the bushing and shifter cable's eyelet: eyelet's innermost diameter (narrow part is .423 of an inch or 10.75 mm, eyelet's outermost diameter (wides grooved part that acommodates bushing's outer lips measures .517 of an inch or 13.15 mm, bushing's outermost and wider sides (two lips outer faces) measure  .517 of an inch or 13.15 mm and allocate into the eyelet's grooves. Bushing's narrowest part or middle holes' diameter where the inner lip or membrane is located .220 of an inch or 5.60. Bushing's inner diameter at the widest and both faces hole measures .295 of an inch or 7.49 mm .330 of an inch. I assume that ball pull's diameter needs to be a minimum of about .3150 or 8.00 mm to .393 or 10 mm.

   Attention: when inserting the bushing, be sure that once it's installed into the plastic eyelet that it is carefully pushed against the ball pull, making sure the ball passes the bushing inner membrane lip, which measures about .039 of an inch or 1.00 mm. Brute force and stubbornness will destroy the bushing or the cable's eyelet; patience and time will yield the right results. Some people in the past were not careful and either destroyed the bushing or claimed that the bushing's inner hole was too big for the ball pull. In reality, the bushing was okay, but it was not installed all the way, got torn up, and was later on disconnected from the ball pull. The ball pull needs to be fully inserted into the bushing and jump the center lip without damaging it; this is also true if you install a new bushing or a brand new cable with a bushing included.

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