2.5 INCH UNIVERSAL INTERCOOLER PIPING
- 100% Brand New 2.5 Intercooler Piping Kit. High Quality Made of 6061 Aluminum chrome finished Lightweight design
- Great for Turbo DIY builder.Increase 65% air flow when compare with other piping! Might Modify to Fit in Your Car,
- No Instruction Included, Professionall Installation Is Highly Recommended
- Universal Fit all Turbo Projects!
- This kit comes with 8 pc aluminum piping, and comes with 16 clamps 8 silicone hose
- Inlet: 2.5" / Outlet: 2.5"
9ROWS OIL COOLER+RELOCATION KIT
· Oil cooler Size: 9 Rows
· This oil cooler is made of high quality polished finish aluminum
· High Performance Better Cooling
· Powder coated for durability and oxidation protection
· Useable to cool engine oil, transmission, or rear-differentials.
· Professional Installation is highly recommended!
Oil Filter Relocation Kit:
· 100% Brand new never been used or tried
· Made out of high quality aluminum with CNC laser cut
· Oil Filter relocation for easy access, a must for hard-get oil filter.
· 3/4”-16 (An-8) thread fitting and 7/8” x 12 1/8 bolt pattern
ALSO COME WITH
1. TURBOCHARGER OIL FEED LINE
2. TURBOCHARGER OIL DRAIN LINE
3. 2.5INCH BLOW OFF VALVE FLANGE PIPE
4. ADJUSTABLE JDM BLOW OFF VALVE
5. 2” 7 COLORS TURBO BOOST GAUGE
6. BOX STYLE DIGITAL LED DISPLAY TURBO TIMER
7. BATTERY GROUND VOLTAGE STABILIZER
8. 3” RED JDM STYLED AIR FILTER
9. ROUND OIL CATCH TANK/CAN
10. MANUAL 1-30 PSI TURBOCHARGER BOOST CONTROLLER
11. 10 INCH ELECTRIC SLIM RADIATOR FAN+MOUNTING KIT
Turbo Charger Basic Concept
Turbochargers come in many sizes and physical orientations for all kinds of applications. There are literally hundreds to choose from. Here we’ll explain the basics to understand the technology a little better when selecting your next turbo for your projector car.
Turbos are rated based on how much air they can deliver. Each model usually has specs that explain the capabilities and limitations. The bigger the turbine inside, typically the more air it can deliver at full boost. But the bigger the exhaust turbine is, the more exhaust can pass through easier, reducing back pressure. Larger exhaust turbines are also heavier, having more mass, hence it will take slightly longer spin up to produce build full boost. The length of this spin up process is called “spool time”.
According to standard turbo theory, your engine is happiest when the exhaust pressure and intake manifold pressures are identical throughout the RPM range. This matching will produce the best combination of max horsepower and quick spool time. So how do you measure this? For the shade tree mechanic this is difficult. That's where you depend on Outfront to recommend the best turbo setup to achieve your target horsepower, based on your engine setup and displacement.
Everybody wants a fast spool time to get the horsepower to build at the lowest RPM as possible as you accelerate. So the thing to keep in mind is to select a turbo that has a small enough turbine to spool up quickly, but big enough to pump enough air to support the maximum horsepower you’re targeting to achieve. That’s the tradeoff you need to consider, horsepower versus spool time.
Turbos are often referred to by "T" numbers that are really a "class type" . These numbers were originally created by Garrett, the largest turbo manufacturer in the world. You have probably heard people talking about T3 and T4 turbos in their car. The “T3” number is a general CFM classification. The T number also specifies a compatible exhaust flange type which the turbo will bolt onto. It’s important to understand there are many different types of T3 turbos with different air outputs which are rated for different horsepower applications. So when somebody says they have a T3, they are actually saying what class of turbo they have, and the flange type. Generally speaking T3 class turbos can deliver enough air volume for applications in the 200 to 300HP range.
The bigger T4 turbo has a larger turbine on the exhaust side and larger turbine fins in intake compressor side. This allows the T4 to pump out more air at full boost to achieve more horsepower than T3, assuming the engine displacement is big enough to provide enough exhaust. The penalty you pay is a slightly slower spool time, when compared to a T3 on the same engine. T4 turbos are usually for larger motors and use a different exhaust flange. T4 can deliver enough air for applications in the 400 to 600HP range.
T3 and T4 turbos have been around for a long time and offer great value. These turbos use oil-lite bearings to support the turbine shaft, which eventually wears out after years of usage. The length of usage depends on how often the oil is changed, and what type of oil filter used in the engine setup. The life of the turbo will also be longer if you incorporate a blow-off valve setup somewhere between the turbo and the throttle body valve.
There is another popular turbo class called T3/T4. This was designed to fill the gap between 300 and 400HP configuration. This class of turbo is ideal if you want to start out with a stock Honda engine to produce about 100HP - 150HP, then later upgrade the internals (rods-pistons-block-injectors) of the motor to produce 300+HP. This turbo is assembled with a combination of the exhaust side turbine and housing of a T3 and the air compressor turbine and housing side of a T4. This hybrid combination fits many applications for HONDA CIVIC, CRX, INTEGRA, DELSOL sandrail setups.
You might be thinking….. who would ever buy a turbo without ball bearings? The answer to that is...... a lot of people. Most people buy the conventional T3/T4 without ball bearings because they cost less, about half what ball bearing turbos cost. Another factor is that some ball bearing turbos are not rebuildable, so be careful. But if money is no option, opt for the newer ball bearing setup, they absolutely rip!
