63-82 Corvette Steeroids rack and pinion conversion kit - Power Or Manual Steering


 

PLEASE READ THE FULL DESCRIPTION SECTION AND ASK ANY QUESTIONS BEFORE ORDERING!

 

These Kits are not assembles or boxed till ordered. These Kits come out of a fulfillment warehouse in Kansas. So when you purchase this product it will take a couple of business days to assemble the kit and package the kit. After the couple of days I will get the shipping and tracking number.  The tracking numbers come to me in the evening of the day it ships. And I will forward this tracking number to you.

Please be sure to supply the following information when purchasing or paying:

 

Year of Car

Power Steering or Manual Steering

Small Block or Big Block

 

Power rack & pinion conversion kit, adjustable for bump steer.
Steeroids™ Offers Improved Steering Feel -Recirculating ball steering is vague and unresponsive, especially "on center". Control is greatly enhanced.

 

Steeroids Offers Quicker Ratio -Steering racks offer quicker ratios. Steeroids™ power kits yield approximately 2.5 turns lock-to-lock (~2.9 for manual).
Steeroids Are Lighter Weight -Compared to the stock steering system.

Steeroids Offer Bolt On Installation -Absolutely no welding, cutting or drilling. Installs with basic hand tools in approximately 3 hours.
Stock Pump Used -Existing or readily available power steering pump and brackets can be used.
Steeroids Come As A Complete Kit -All necessary parts are included with the exception of the power steering pump.

 

Parts Included With Steeroids:


Rack and pinion - (paint finish)
Adapter brackets (powder coated black)
Tie rod ends (Self cleaning & lubricating, Teflon lined).
U-joint assembly (Alum Alloy)
Power steering hoses
Misc. fasteners (grade-8)
Steering Columns Also Available!

 

NOTE: If you are going from manual to power steering you will need two hydraulic cylinder bolts. You can order them from us - search for part number A7019 (two required per car).

Tech Note: What is bump steer, and why is it important?


Bump steer is a term used to describe how suspension travel effects your steering alignment. As you drive over rough surfaces on the road, the suspension moves up and down. If your steering tie rods are not the correct length and at the correct angle, they will travel a different radius than the suspension, causing your alignment to toe in and toe out as the suspension travels up and down. If your car's alignment is changing while you are driving, this can cause the vehicle to become unsettled and darty, quick to wander and more apt to follow ruts. Steeroids® rack and pinion kits have been engineered to significantly reduce bump steer compared to stock. Our kits are adjustable to accommodate a variety of situations (including lowered vehicles), which actually makes your car not only steer better, but handle better!

 

Five Reasons to Buy a Steeroids

1) TURNING RESPONSIVENESS.

This involves several related facts but the most important is the slop through a steering box. A new steering box can have appreciable slop and a loose feel. In addition a SteeroidsTM has a lower turns ratio, typically under three turns lock to lock, whereas stock systems can have up to five turns! What does this mean? Lower turns ratio means less struggling with the steering wheel when making maneuvers quickly like you would in an auto cross or more important, avoiding that box that just fell off the flat bed in front of you on the freeway. The car will go where you point it without frantic steering wheel turning.

 

2) ON CENTER FEEL.

Recirculating ball steering boxes have vague on center feel due to the inherent looseness of two sets of gears through which the steering input must go through to reach the wheels. The gear sets are: the worm gear (with the recirculating balls) and then the sector gear. Additionally there is play in the servo valve for the power assist. A modern rack and pinion contains just one set of gears and a very responsive servo valve that virtually eliminates play in the steering. This reduction in gear sets, and improved servo valving result in steering response that is immediate when a steering input is given from the centered position rather than a 1/2 inch of travel on the steering wheel to take up the slack before the steering responds. This translates into smaller input corrections necessary to keep the car driving straight, rather than constantly moving back and forth in the "dead zone" to be where the steering responds.

 

3) LESS WEIGHT, LESS COMPLEXITY.  

A SteeroidsTM Rack and Pinion Kit is typically 20-25% lighter than the steering box and lever arms it replaces. The rack & pinion with an aluminum alloy housing, and aluminum tie rod links we provide replace the center link, steering box and pivots usually made of steel. Fewer, lighter parts cut the weight on the vehicle’s front end.

 

4) ADJUSTABLE FOR BUMP STEERING.

SteeroidsTM Kits come complete with everything you will need to set up your car to minimize bump steering. Other kits use the factory, non-adjustable tie rod ends, but not SteeroidsTM. Our design solution provides adjustability. It is important to check and adjust bump steer if you have lowered your vehicle, or if you want to improve on something the factory did not consider. What is bump steer? The tendency for the vehicle to unexpectedly swerve when you hit a bump. It is annoying and dangerous.

 

5) REAL TECH SUPPORT, AND INSTRUCTIONS.

This may sound unusual but just because it looks like a SteeroidsTM, doesn’t mean it is a SteeroidsTM. There is a lot of confusion and hype about “stiffer” this or “better” that. These same products are supported by our engineering staff and customer service team who have hands on experience installing the kits. We also include illustrated installation instructions that are accurate to insure that your installation experience goes smoothly. The clear instructions are backed up by a knowledgeable person who is a phone call away should you need it.

 

 

 Corvette Steeroids - Feel The Road!

 

 

PLEASE NOTE: When deciding on a manual or power kit, we usually recommend going with the power kits. Most customers have enjoyed more benefits from the power rack, since the quick ratio manual (~2.9 turns lock-to-lock) still has resistance at lower speeds.

 

 

General Notes - Corvette Steeroids

 

OTHER KITS: When comparing our kit to others that may be on the market, we feel that our experience with manufacturing steering conversion kits helps us offer the best kit available. Our engineers have had years of fine tuning bump steer issues, header clearance issues, ease of install issues and geometry issues. We offer a COMPLETE kit - Everything you need to completely replace the old steering with the new Steeroids and get you on the road, without any hidden parts that you will need to find on your own. Also, you do not need to make ANY modifications to your vehicle to make fit. When we say Bolt-On, we mean it! If you would like to know more about our kit(s) and our history of manufacturing them, please feel free to ask any questions If I can not answer your questions I will give you the Tech support or Development numbers to call. Please ask!!!

 

PLAY IN THE WHEEL: This is often caused by a worn bearing at the end of the steering column. It is not usually noticed with the original steering box, but with the Steeroids system it makes a big difference with regards to steering wheel "play". The bearing doesn't cost very much and only takes about 5 minutes to replace. They can be found on Eckler's website.

 

FLUID: Please do not run synthetic fluid through your rack unit until the break-in period is over, usually around 1000 miles.

ENGINE CONVERSIONS: We know that there was no problem with a 71 Corvette with an LS1, however, he had custom headers...Also, it may require some modification to the oil pan if you are running a long sump. No problems with an LS6 with the stock manifolds. We also have installed this system on a 1969 Corvertte  With an LS-6, with Camaro oil pan and Stock C5 or C6 exhaust manifold.

GM SERPENTINE SYSTEMS: If you are using a GM Serpentine System, we recommend ordering the kit for the Big Block. We have had customers tell us that our hoses for the Big Block kit hook directly up without any modification.

OIL PAN CLEARANCE: Most oversized oil pans fit as long as the stock steering fits. We are running 7 qt Milodons on our development vehicles. The factory 327/365 SHP motor which has the larger 6 quart oil pan does not fit with the stock steering, and does not fit with our kit either. The following are some measurements off of our 78 small block (with a 7 qt Milodon) that may help:

Back of sump to front of sump: 9"
Back of sump to rack: 12"
Clearance at the top of the rack: 1/2"
From the front of the pan back, you need about 7" clearance.

* LS ENGINES: Many customers are changing to LS engines. There seems to be only minor modifications necessary. The main clearance issue is with the oil pan, however, if you use a Firebird or Camaro oil pan, it seems to work just fine. We have not heard anything about headers, but stock manifolds should work. You may be able to check our header clearance.

Power & Manual Rack Units

Our Racks: Steeroids rack and pinion steering conversion kits utilize remanufactured rack and pinion units. All of these racks are sand blasted and repainted, have new boots, seals and internal parts and then bench tested to make sure everything is working like new. Rack units do not have many wearable parts - and all parts that are wearable are replaced with new parts so that you can be sure you will have a rack that works.


We opted to go with refurbished rack and pinion units for several reasons, but mainly because A) the cost is kept down to an affordable amount. With new, custom racks the cost of the kit would increase significantly, and B) by using remanufactured racks we know they are proven (GM sold literally hundreds of thousands of them) so they are reliable and they will have replacement parts available down the road should you need them.

 

Turning Radius: With the Steeroids rack and pinion kits (except Chevelle), there is a slight increase in turning radius from the stock, but most of our customers have told us it is an insignificant amount. Navigating parking spots is not a problem with our kit. You can expect to gain about 7 feet when measuring the full diameter.

 

Running Power Kits Manually: The power racks that we use are internally lubricated, so if you have a power rack and need to run it manually for a short period of time, you can leave the plugs in the rack and run them manually. The downfall with this is that when you are going slow or at a stop (like in a parking lot), the steering resistance is increased, so you will have to use a lot more effort to steer due to the quick ratio rack. Once the vehicle was moving, it usually is about the same as the stock manual steering.
This option is available for all of our kits. The Camaro, Firebird and Nova racks yield about 2.75 turns lock to lock at the steering wheel, where the Mustang and the Corvette racks yield 2.5 turns.


Issues to Consider: If you are thinking about running a power kit manually, some factors will change the amount of steering input required to turn the steering wheel - such as how wide your tires are, do you have a small block or big block and has there been any front end lightening done to the vehicle? These are just to name a few. We have many customers with wide tires who are into auto crossing that prefer to run the kits manually because they prefer plenty of road feel. All of these factors are of course up to the individual's preferences.


People with power racks that are using them manually and are using the vehicle often (daily driver) may want to consider adding additional lubricating fluid every 5,000 miles or so to keep things smooth. Also, you may want to consider making a hose that connects the pressure port to the return port on the rack. The motion of the seals moving back and forth will create a slight pressure inside the rack, so a bypass hose can eliminate some of the pressure. Current manual racks have had the cylinder drilled to prevent pressure build up.

 

Steering Pumps :

 

When using other pumps with our racks the pump cannot have a max pressure exceeding 1250-1300 lbs .

 

The pump cannot have a max volume exceeding 2 gallons per minute UNLESS you have a system (such as Hydroboost braking systems) that includes an additional amount of fluid over the stock amount. Why? If you run just from the pump to the rack, then back to the pump, excessive heat is the enemy. Any more than 2 gallons per minute could damage the rack. Systems with additional fluid and routing allow the fluid to cool, allowing some pumps with higher outputs. Unfortunately, higher output pumps may result in slightly less resistance in the steering wheel. This, of course, is a matter of preference for the driver.

 

FLUID - Please do not run synthetic fluid through your rack unit until the break-in period is over, usually around 1000 miles.

 

If you are looking for more road feel (or greater resistance in the steering wheel), chances are your suspension is what needs to be adjusted - not your pump. Caster, camber and alignment have more to do with the steering wheel resistance than pump pressures for the most part. Please refer to the recommended settings below before adjusting your pump. If, after trying these settings, you still do not have enough resistance in the wheel, you can try a pressure reducing kit. Please call for more information on pressure reducing kits.

 

Toe (total) - 0 to 1/8" (increase from 0 for greater stability)
Camber - 0 to negative .25 degrees
Caster - 3 to 6 degrees positive (add as much positive caster as possible)

The pumps that we offer have all new interior parts. The housing is a refurbished non-wearable part.

 

Diagnosing Power Steering Problems
When trying to determine what is causing a problem in your power steering, keep this in mind. If the problem occurs only in one direction, the problem is probably in the box or rack. If the problem is in both directions, it is most likely the pump, dirty fluid or hoses. Be sure there are no kinks or obstructions in your power steering hoses.

 

Dirty Steering System
Before changing any single component of the steering system, inspect the cleanliness of your system. Dirty or black fluid can quickly ruin new steering components. If changing the box or rack, rub your finger on the inside of the reservoir. If it isn't clean, you must flush the pump and hoses with clean fluid before installing new components.

 

Bleeding Power Steering
All power steering systems are designed to be self-bleeding, but sometimes they need a little help. After installing new components, fill the reservoir and let it sit for a few minutes. Raise the front end of the vehicle and turn the wheels back and forth slowly with the engine off to allow the steering box to draw fluid. Keep the reservoir full. When the fluid level stops dropping, start the vehicle and continue turning the wheels. When the fluid level remains constant the system is fully bled.

 

Put cardboard under the front tires while testing your steering system. The cardboard will slide on the floor and prevent wearing flat spots on the tire from excessive turning of the wheels while not moving.

 

Binding of the U-Joints

 

This is an area that can take some fine-tuned adjustment, although it is rarely an issue uneasily resolved. Usually when binding is felt, the driver will notice a stiff spot in the steering wheel approximately every 90 degrees. It can be adjusted more than most people recognize, and with some applied knowledge and understanding of why it is binding, all binding will disappear.

 

Binding most commonly occurs in the upper U-Joint. Binding occurs when the angle has become too extreme OR when the double U-Joint is not properly aligned. If the double U-Joint gets an "S" configuration in it, as opposed to a nice straight arch down to the rack, it will start to bind. There are several different methods to go about adjusting this. The most common method to relieve this angle is to loosen the steering column at the two inner locations. One at the fire wall under the dash and the other under the dash up closer to the steering wheel. With the steering column loose, pull back on the steering wheel toward the driver. This should relieve some of the angle. When making this adjustment, be sure to let the support bearing for the intermediate shaft "float" - or in other words, leave the jam nuts loose. Once the steering column is as far to the rear of the car as the double U-Joint will allow, tighten everything back up. 99% of the time, this will eliminate any binding felt in the double U-joint.

 

For the more obstinate instances, if pulling the steering column all the way back does not relieve the angle, more adjustment is available. With the steering column loose at both locations and the support bearing "floating," use some form of leverage bar (a 2x4 or piece of metal) and move the end of the steering column over toward the engine. The rubber grommet that the steering column passes through at the fire wall has adjustment built into it for side to side adjustment as well as up and down. (This was to accommodate for the large tolerances when mounting the body to the frame at the factory.) By moving the front end of the steering column toward the center of the vehicle, you are even more so relieving the angle on the double U-Joint.

 

Corvette Header Clearances

 

The following is a list of headers that our customers have told us have or have not worked for them. Our systems are not limited to these headers by any means, but you can use them as a routing style reference for your own headers. It is the routing style that is important, not the name brand. You can look these up to see if yours have similar routing styles.

 

Corvette:

 

Small Block:

 

- Black Jack - No Problem

- Flotech 11106FLT or 31106 FLT - Dimple Required in Drivers Side

- Hedman long tube with a 4-2-1 collector SB - major dimple required

- Hedman side pipes - Dimple Required (350 1 5/8" headers, small dimple on pass side)

- Hooker 2456HKR or 2456-1HKR - No Problem

- Hooker 2134HKR or 2134-1HKR Super Comps - No Problem

- Hooker 2224, 2224-1 or 2234 Side Pipes- Dimple Required in Drivers Side

- Thorley Headers with L82 - No Problem

- Walker Dynomax - No Problem

 

Big Block:

 

- Stahl 2 1/8" fits - Fit with dimpling

- Stock Manifold - 454 No Problem

- Stainless Works - 2" Flange, 3" Collector No Problem

- Hedman 2" - Needs Dimple

- Hooker Side Pipes - No Problem

- Hooker Longboy's need modification

- Hooker Supercomps - No Problem (even with a 572 ci tall deck!)

 

If you purchase this product and your PayPal address (or shipping address) is Texas or Colorado. We will have to collect state sales tax.

TX is 6.7% and CO is 7.2%.


 

WARRANTY DISCLAIMER


Seller disclaims any express or implied warranty of merchantability with respect to the goods sold. Seller disclaims any warranty of fitness for any particular purposes whatsoever with respect to the goods being sold.
Seller disclaims all liability for any personal injury or damage which may result from the sale, installation, or use of any product sold. Labor charges, and/or damage incurred in installation, repair or replacement as well as incidental and consequential damage.

 

Domestic shipping:

We will only ship to address that match the PayPal account unless authorized before placing the order. Please allow 5-7 business days for all items to ship.

International shipping:

We will only ship to international customers using a US freight forwarder.

There is a charge to ship from our warehouse to the freight forwarder of your choice.  The Domestic Shipping Price will get the product from our warehouse to the US freight forwarder that you specify. 

 

You are responsible for all fees to ship from the US freight forwarder to your delivery location.  You are also responsible for any and all tariffs, taxes, or other fees that may apply. 

 

We consider the parts delivered when the freight forwarder receives the package. Once the freight forwarder receives the package we are no longer able to provide shipping or tracking information.  We have no control over shipping from the freight forwarder.  Our liability ends when the freight forwarder receives the package.

This is the only exception  to the rule that I will only ship to the address in your PayPal account. I will ship to the freight forwarder address even though it is not the address on the PayPal account.

 


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