Classic British Seagull Sjm 22" 2 Hp Dingy Tender Kicker Outboard Motor on 2040-parts.com

Up for auction is one British Seagull "World's Best Outboard Motor" Model SJM 22 (AKA Minus-Fourty [2 Hp]). It was starting up fine and running 2 1/2 years ago when the lake went dry and it has been in dry storage since then. Lightweight (about 25 Lbs) and made of the finest materials it was intended for  a Dingy up to 9', although I have used it on a 14' narrow aluminum V-Hull Boat on a semi-calm lake with no problems for fishing in my small cove. Because of it's lightweight, it can be carried by a small woman or child with little effort. The first photo is of a similar sister model (not this one), the rest are of the actual engine you are bidding on and will receive.  Multiple web sites for forums, parts exist and are available if interested. This motor has a cult following and thousands are in active use thought the world. Extremely rugged and built for salt water use. I use to live aboard a sailboat in the Seattle area (we sailors worshiped the Seagull because of its utter lack for tedious care in salt water compared to other brands), I remember one being found on the bottom of Lake Union (oily, brackish [half salt] water between Puget Sound and Lake Washington).  The owner had lost it 2 years before in a storm, they cleaned it up and had it fully functional and in use in less than an hour! Try that with your small Johnson or Evinrude and all you would have left is a rusty anchor (-;.

Included: is the Manual The Classic British Seagull (history, specifications, adjustments/maintenance, part schematics, troubleshooting et cetera, autographed by the author Don Meyer (I found him contactable for assistance).

Also included: are 5 Whitworth* Tools, Chrome Vanadium for use around salt water, Wrench Sizes: 1/4W, 5/16W 3/16W, 1/4W (N0 9), & Whitworth* Sockets 1/4W, 5/16W. These are all the tools needed for all bolt heads on this model for dis-assembly. I filled the lower end about 3 years ago and the engine has less than 5 hours since then. I am 70 now and the lake is still dry so I am selling it AS IS with no guarantees.

SHIPPING: Free Pickup (If picked up I will give you the lower end oil I have on hand as well [about $30 worth]). Shipping can be done via Greyhound if you live near a terminal ( I recently shipped an antique school desk from S Texas to Bellingham WA for $68 + Packing Materials...it arrived in perfect condition).  It could be sent Parcel Post for about $52 including packing to Seattle WA. UPS would be $67 + a Pickup Fee (You Order and Prepay). I used these destinations as it is likely to be the greatest distance from here and should reflect the maximum cost.  If you live much closer it will be less and I will refund any savings as I have done for buyers in the past (check my feedback).

* Whitworth was the standard size though the British Empire once. It had some advantages over SAE and metric and might be in more common use today except for the EU. Many classic cars are Whitworth (AC Bristol for one) which use the steel shank size use to make the bolt rather than SAE method. Outside of a screwdriver and a pair of pliers, standard sparkplug socket & gapper, the tools included should suffice your every need for this outboard. Warning: Never use SAE or Metric tools (wrenchs & sockets) on this engine--or you will ruin your tool or round/strip the bolt-heads!

Other Information & quotes about British Seagull Outboards:

"If you have seen a British Seagull outboard engine on a boat you may think it looks very antique and old. This is often not true because British Seagull is from the beginning made after a specific philosophy and for safe service under difficult conditions at sea.

   Many letters from happy owners were written to the factory in England. This classical letter is from a sales folder in 1985.

   "..it was left under a bush at the bottom of  the garden for 23 years wrapped in a plastic type bag and forgotten about...without even changing the spark plug it went on approximately the 12^th pull".

   Living with this and other positive testimonials from their owners British Seagull has become almost an institution among sailors all over the world. Since the first Seagull was manufactured in 1931 few basic things have been changed.

   The engine was at first made by the Sundbeam Motor Company and John Marston  Ltd., who built the famous Sundbeam motorcycles in Wolverhampton. The first engines were named "Marston Seagull" and its cone shaped silencer looked much like a motorcycle one.

   The engine was developed over the years and made for different duties with different propeller sizes and gearing. Many engine parts can be changed between the models. The same spare part can also be used for different models. The design of the engine is simple and rugged and it demands a minimum of service and can be dismantled by simple tools. It is made of pure marine grade materials and for service in salt water and will last for many years. It is not uncommon to find a Seagull after 40 years of use to be as new after cleaning up.

  All Seagull engines are made for use at boats with displacement hull. Boats that goes through the water and not more or less above it. The engines have no bearings but large bronze bushes which means that an engine can by accident go overboard and still be saved. The propeller is large and made for modest rpm.

  During WW II the British Admiralty ordered a "rough and tough" version of  "Model 102" for use at light boats. At least 10.000 engines were made in a short time. Some of these engines only made one single journey to destruction but a lot were saved and used until our days.

  After some years Marston Seagull production rights was bought out by the two engineers and entrepreneurs John Way-Hope and Bill Pinninger. The two men had earlier worked at the engineering department at Sundbeam Motor Company developing the Seagull engines. The production was moved to Poole and the new company renamed the engines to:

 

British Seagull "The Best Outboard Motor for the World".

 

  John Way-Hope has written the very enjoyable, readable and useful, today classical manuals about how to use and maintain your British Seagull. In his very special way generations of  owners with minor technical know-how  learned how to best use their engines.

 

 

 

Quotes from: "Operating instructions for the Models 40 & 100 Seagulls"

 

  - Your "Seagull" does not ask for very much, and there is no difficulty in giving it what it requires...we do not write this book for fun, we do it because it is vital for your own pleasure, security and peace of mind.

  - Do not do your first trip with a new engine under rush conditions, in front of a large audience. For instance, avoid a vital trip, catching the last of the tide, in a small dinghy, laden to the gunwales with gear and people, in half a gale in the pouring rain...this sounds silly, but it is exactly what people do only too frequently.

  - Choose fine weather conditions...a useful, and, if possible, seamanlike and mechanical companion...a quiet and secluded spot, where success or otherwise does not matter much...take your time, and see that the engine is fitted exactly as laid down in these instructions, and get set thoroughly with the new mechanism before starting serious business.

  - It is absolutely essential that the fundamentals in life is provided for a motor, and almost all the ailments attached to outboard motoring can be accounted for by the attitude of "It does not matter...any old plug will do...any old fuel...any oil that is available...mixed in any proportions...no need to read the instructions, I know all about engines...never mind about fixing the engine on the boat properly, we are in a hurry...this will do...that will do," etc., etc., ad nauseam. Let us say at once, this will not do...and is asking for trouble.

 

(1) 1. The Seagull is a pure-bred marine engine, for a hard life on salt water.

(1) 2. It is designed for a rich oil mixture to provide not only unlimited life, but adequate oil protection from the internal corrosion always associated with the long periods of idleness inseparable from service at sea.

 

Lubrication of the gearbox. You must not use grease. Oil only must be used. Any good quality gear oil will do, of approximately S.A.E. 140 viscosity   From 1978/1979 models, EP 90 was recommended. Fill up to filler plug hole measured with engine in upright position.

 

The sparking plug. Nearly 90% of engine failure is due to plug trouble, and yet, plug trouble is almost entirely avoidable. Use the right plug "Champion D16" or equivalent. Points gap 0.020 in. (0,5 mm). For later models with breakerless ignition 0.035 in (0,9 mm), not less. Always carry a spare, good, plug...not just another plug which has probably been rejected faulty on some previous occasion!

If the engine cuts out suddenly or do not start after tree or four pulls it is ten chances to one that it is plug trouble. Whip out the plug at once and check.

 

The boat and speed. Now as regards obtaining maximum speed from the whole outfit:

First of all, in any displacement dinghy, that is to say one which goes through the water, as opposed to a speed dinghy which planes on top of it, maximum possible speed of the boat is governed entirely by the length of the boat and not by the power exerted by the engine. To some this may be surprising but it is a fact. As a rough guide, a 9-foot hull will reach 4.5 knots and a 16-footer 6 knots; other lengths in proportion. Always remember, however, that it is a waste of effort to try and drive a boat above its calculated maximum referred to above.

  Do not use a scrap more throttle opening than is necessary. The most economical cruising speed is with the throttle lever a third open approximately in line with the tiller."

WARNING: Do not attempt to use any 140 Multi-grade oils...they will not work! I live in a rural area and was able to purchase it at a local Tractor & Farm Supply.