Find or Sell any Parts for Your Vehicle in USA

Lot Of Vintage Vehicle Bulbs / Lamps Nos New Old Stock Ge 1133 1129 2331 Etc on 2040-parts.com

US $29.99
Location:

Chloride, Arizona, United States

Chloride, Arizona, United States
New Old Stock.
Brand:Various

 Here we have a

Lot of Vintage Vehicle Bulbs / Lamps NOS New Old Stock GE 1133 1129 2331 etc

They are NOS stock. Some of the boxes just fell apart so some are un-boxed

There is 6x GE 1133, 1x GE 1129, 2x Westinghouse Mazda 2331, 2x GE 2331, 14x Westinghouse Mazda 2330 and a Westinghouse 1133

Please see pictures

Photos
Photos shown in this listing are of the actual item for sale.
NO STOCK PHOTOS USED unless otherwise stated.
In photographs we occasionally use props to display items in the best light possible. These props, like my white board, lighting , kitchen table, Train track, boxes are not including unless otherwise stated in the listing. ( Sorry for you having to read this but you would be surprised how many people think the items come with my table, the wife's legs etc etc... )
In the first few lines you will see what you are bidding on, i.e... “This auction is for a ??????????  "  If it does not say base, stand , table , my wife , in either the main body of the description or title ... then they are NOT included in the sale.


VACUUM TUBE TESTING

I do not Sell Just Passable Vacuum Tubes. All tubes purchased have loads of life left in them. Low and weak tubes are unceremoniously thrown in the nearest trash can, unless they are collectors Items.

When using the word “Matched” it means in test results rather than in cosmetic looks. Whilst I endeavor to put tubes together from the same year and look the same, this is not always the case. I may have the same tube but from differing years matched up in test results, which means they may cosmetically or internally look a little different...
The numbers/letters in parentheses are Equivalents put in to help people to find the correct tube.
If it does not say MATCHED then please do not consider them to be such.

If you need to know the test results that I get then please just ask , as I do not always publish them but I have them on hand if anyone wants to know.
Please note, though my numerous testers are calibrated all results are for a guide only. I have Many calibrated testers ranging from a Amplitrex at1000 Digital, Hickok 800, TV-7/U, TV7 with digital upgrade, Hickok 752A. Hickok 752, Military TV-7s etc etc. I can test the same tube on each tester and get differing results on each.
If I state any values they are for a guide only.as what I will get may be different to what you may test something as.
All tubes have passed the Gas and short tests.
Rectifiers and Diode tubes do not have Transconductance values.
Please have a look at the pictures for the cosmetic condition. Please realize when buying antique, vintage or used equipment that they cannot be in an absolute mint or absolute perfect condition, they might need some service, now or later. I take lots of pictures so you can see cosmetics. Use the zoom function and have a good look. It is impossible to describe every scratch, scuff or mark. So take a good look. That is what they are there for. We check and describe the as much of the functionality as we can.  If not Fully tested, then items are not tested to the full extent and may have something wrong that I have not discovered. If fully tested then that is what they are.  Fully  working.

NOS TUBES. If a tube has been used, even for only one second, then it is USED. To be frank there is no such thing as a NEW TUBE unless it has never been in a tester. As soon as a tube is is put into a tester, then , IT IS USED.  So NOS refers to the Test results rather than it is brand new and never been out of it's box.

Suffixes that are useful when looking at tubes

G = Glass envelope, which distinguishes from a metal-envelope tube
W = Ruggedized construction, meets “MIL-1-A” US Military specifications, and therefore most W tubes are US military inventory.
A more complete list of suffixes and their exact meaning:

(None) = Without more context, a tube with no suffix does not tell you very much.  If you know that both metal and glass versions were manufactured, then no suffix is a METAL ENVELOPE tube (example: original 6L6, 6F6, 6V6, 6N6, etc… were all metal envelope tubes).  If only one type of envelope was manufactured for that type, then no suffix simply refers to the tube being the original design of the tube.  (Example: 2A3, 6A3).
A = 2nd generation of same tube type with a small improvement or higher ratings than original design, but not sufficiently different to warrant an entirely new designation.  Backwards compatible with earlier designs.  The ‘A’ improvements were primarily “controlled heater warm-up time” and/or “low-noise-low-hum.”
B = 3rd generation of same tube type with a small improvement or higher ratings than earlier designs, but not sufficiently different to warrant an entirely new designation.  Backwards compatible with earlier designs.
C = 4th generation of same tube type with a small improvement or higher ratings than earlier designs, but not sufficiently different to warrant an entirely new designation.  Backwards compatible with earlier designs.
G = Glass envelope and Octal base.  Distinguishes from a metal-envelope tube.
GB = T-5½ glass envelope
GL = T9 glass envelope with Loctal base
GM or MG = Metal-coated glass envelope with Octal base
LM = MT-8 metal envelope and octalox base
LT = T9 glass envelope and octalox base
M = Metal envelope and Octal base
ML = T9 metal envelope with Loctal base
M-R = while not technically a suffix, “MR” when stamped on tube base only means that the tube was manufactured during WW2 for “Maintenance and Repair” of civilian radios.  (During WW2, military need for vacuum tubes created a large shortage of tubes that could be purchased by civilians.) M-R has absolutely no special “audiophile” connotation.
S= Spray shield coating on a glass envelope tube
T = short glass envelope
W = Ruggedized construction, meets “MIL-1-A” US Military specifications
Y = Micanol base
Example: 5Y3WGTA conveys a ruggedized US military issue tube with a small glass envelope and newer design than original 5Y3G.

IF YOU'RE UNHAPPY WITH AN ITEM ...

Contact us via messaging.
 I am human... I make mistakes once in a while. I and My wife run this store on eBay. We are not a huge retail outlet.
I try to resolve any issue to both our best interests.

MAILING

We Try to Mail out within 24 hours of your payment. Where I live the Post office is closed on a Saturday, so Purchases paid for on a Friday will go out on Monday as I work Fridays and do not get home until after the PO is closed.

GRADING OF CD's and RECORDS
What do the GRADING MEAN?
NEW - Unopened and brand new, sealed.
Like NEW - Used but no obvious signs of use. (May be very light Scratching but not noticeable) ( or the Case/Cover may be Scuffed a little)
EXCELLENT- Very light ware to the CD / Record or CASE/ Cover.
Very GOOD PLUS - USED, Some Light Scratching to either the case or CD/Record. Plays Well. Light scratching to the case/ Cover.
Very GOOD - USED Light Scratching to both the Case and CD/Record. Slightly Heavier than Above.
GOOD PLUS. Light and medium scratching. CD still plays well. Cover is in Good condition but has normal wear and tear.
GOOD. Heavy use. Medium to heavy scratching. CD/Record still Plays ok. May jump or you will hear scratching on the record. Or if this is in grading is in regard to the case/Cover then there may be cracks in the case or the cover is torn, or has rips along its edges or scuffed quite badly.
Fair - The CD? Record plays, sometimes skips. Heavy scratching to the disc. In regards to the case or cover, then the case/ Cover is just holding itself together.
Poor. CD/Record does not play. In regards to the case/ Cover then this grading means the case or sleeve is badly torn, scuffed, cracked and is falling apart. Generally poor condition.
Please remember I am not a professional grader. I am quite harsh on what is good and bad. So some items that I may describe as Fair... may be good or above. It is just my opinion and I would rather paint a bleaker picture of something rather than saying it is better than it is.


Return policy


If in the main body of my listing I sell something AS IS. This means that I have tested something NOT TO ITS FULL EXTENT. Therefore I cannot be 100% sure of its working ability when you get it. In these cases it is best bidding on it as if it was broken.
If I say UNTESTED. then I have not test it. Or have only gone so far to test it.  I am not like other sellers who say untested and am selling something I know to be broken. I have sold many items as UNTESTED and they have worked perfectly well for the buyer. On the other hand I have sold items that have ended up not working at all.
So to recap. You buy items that are untested or Part tested at your own risk. There are NO RETURNS on things I cannot test to the full extent. It is up to you to make a judgment call and decide if it is worth the risk of bidding.

FULL REFUNDS ARE AVAILABLE of the purchase cost and original shipping cost if the item you receive is grossly misrepresented or if an item advertised as working arrives in a non-working condition
We will pay for return shipping, in some cases. But in most cases the return shipping is the sole responsibility of the BUYER

We accept returns unless stated otherwise in the description.
We insure everything, and we have to pay for this insurance. We also pack well. If you still receive an item that has been damaged please let us know so we can start an insurance claim.
 This is a process, and it takes time. We will then gladly refund your money.
 This is the reason for insurance, and I think it is only fair to ask the carrier responsible for the damage to pay for it. Please be patient enough for this process.
If you are demanding your money back and are not prepared to go wait for the insurance process or fail to present the item for the PO or Carrier then it is also only fair you pay for the return shipping because we now cannot claim on the insurance once it leaves you. I am sure you will agree that it defeats the purpose of us insuring anything if no one is going to use the claim process.
Should the Claim process fail , for no fault of ours or yours, then we will certainly refund you your money in full. By bidding on this item you agree to these stipulations and to follow the instructions
of the post office, or carrier. They will normally want to see the item AND PACKING. If you throw away the packing then this makes the insurance VOID. Thank you for your cooperation and understanding.

DISCLAIMER/WAIVER OF LIABILITY

Regardless of the origin of the equipment, documentation provided or identification appearing upon the equipment, the equipment described and offered here is in no
 way certified for, recommended for, or offered for any specific use. The purchaser agrees that the seller shall not be held responsible or liable for any injuries
 or damages, whether incidental or consequential, associated in any way with the equipment. The purchaser, by bidding on this equipment, indicates their acknowledgment
of, and agreement to the terms of this disclaimer.

International Buyers – Please Note:
Import duties, taxes, and charges are not included in the item price or
shipping cost. These charges are the buyer's responsibility.
For more information regarding taxes, etc. for some countries please check you local countries Web site. Most have one.
 •These charges are normally collected by the delivering freight (shipping) company or when you pick the item up – do not confuse them for additional shipping charges.”
 •We do not mark merchandise values below value or mark items as ‘gifts’ , 'demos', etc. - US and International government regulations prohibit such behavior. PLEASE DO NOT ASK
Please check with your country's customs office to determine what these
Additional costs will be prior to bidding or buying.

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